Dr Bill Lumsden, director of distillery and whisky creation at Glenmorangie has ceaselessly innovated with single malt whisky, constantly probing the possibilities it offers.

He is often referred to as ‘the mad scientist of scotch whisky’ (he holds a PhD in biochemistry), developing new flavour maps and maturation methods, educating the world about single malt’s various flavour profiles that could equal any wine, anywhere in the world, or even better it.

When he joined Glenmorangie, creators of Highland Single Malt Scotch Whisky with a history that dates back to 1843, it was a rather small company. Today, it is a global brand and part of French luxury conglomerate LVMH’s growing portfolio of brands.

The conglomerate bought Glenmorangie in 2004, and leveraged its powerful global network and investment to double the whisky brand’s sales beyond 500,000 nine-litre cases per year. LVMH invested money to buy new casks, experiment with single malts — especially under Glenmorangie’s Private Edition label — and boost the brand’s distribution network.

The packaging was also changed to a more glamorous avatar, with Glenmorangie — till then popular in the UK — positioned as a desirable, premium single malt whisky.

Dr Lumsden has lent his genius to Glenmorangie Private Edition series, which is in its 9th edition. Private Edition 9 - Glenmorangie Spìos (Scot Gaelic for spice) launched across the world, including in India, this week. The first Glenmorangie single malt to be ever matured in ex-rye whiskey casks, it heralds the revival of American rye whiskey that has seen some bad times.

The Resurgence Of Rye Whiskey

Once, American rye whisky was fêted in the country’s glamorous saloons. But rye's austere character led to its downfall. The rise of bourbon, a sweeter, mellower corn-based whisky and the presence of single malts from Scotland led to its decimation. Till a few years ago that is when rye whisky staged a comeback in America’s bars with brands such as Jack Daniel’s (which is a ‘Tennessee whisky’ or whisky made in Tennessee) and Jim Beam launching their own rye variations.

Attributing the new-found popularity of rye whiskey to the rising global interest, Dr Lumsden says, “People are more interested in whisky now, and rye is riding the popularity wave.”

He was introduced to rye whiskey in the 1990s, “when it was on life support,” he says. “I felt Glenmorangie’s smooth style would complement the nuances of ex-rye casks. So, I began hunting for the right casks to mature Spìos. It took me almost 10 years to find them.”

By then, Glenmorangie was already using American bourbon barrels and he says he was intrigued by what the difference between the two is like. While the corn mash used in the former imparts it a sweet and full-bodied flavour, the rye mash lends rye whiskies spicy tones and a drier taste.

Dr Lumsden ultimately found heavily charred ex-rye casks that were used to age whisky made from 95 percent rye mash, and filled them with what is Glenmorangie Spìos today. The golden yellow single malt channels the spicy, dry character of rye whisky with the smoothness and subtleness of Glenmorangie’s single malts — the only way you can have rye, some say.

Dr Lumsden describes Spìos as, “a full-bodied whisky with rye’s rare notes of cinnamon and clove. The aroma has hints of cherry, clove and mint toffee. Rye’s spices burst forth on the palate and you can taste toffee, clove, cinnamon and nutmeg, alongside with the buttery vanilla .” Dr Lumsden matures his single malts for at least seven to eight years to get the right result.

The limited Private Editions

Also known as the ‘God of Single Malts Scotch Whisky’, Dr Lumsden has an affinity for wood and has raised the use of wood to mature single malts into a fine art. He says that “all scotch whisky necessarily has to be matured in wood and the kind of cask you use can influence up to 70 percent of the character.” He has earned quite a reputation for breaking with tradition while innovating for Private Editions.

Over the years, he has introduced Sonnalta PX that was rested in Pedro Ximénez sherry casks; Milsean, matured for two-and-a-half years in ex-Portuguese-red-wine barrique; Glenmorangie Ealanta, left to rest in virgin American oak and Bacalta that was matured in sun-baked casks seasoned with Malmsey Madeira wine from the Portuguese Madeira islands.

For the Private Editions, besides the casks, Dr Lumsden often uses different varieties of barley or different peating levels, to tweak the DNA of the Glenmorangie single malts and explore new flavour territories.

The Private Editions are so exclusive that they form only 1 percent of Glenmorangie’s total annual production. Dr Lumsden says, “Private Editions have always intrigued people because we are constantly experimenting. There is still quite a lot to be done with wood. There’s one or two wine brands that I still want to try to get hold of and try new things.”

Dr Lumsden, who first tasted whisky in 1984 as a student (incidentally the classic 10-year-old Glenmorangie) thinks that the several Private Editions have generated wider visibility of the brand, attracted the interest of collectors, and kept the excitement alive. He promises that Private Edition 10 will be far more special. “There is bigger focus on yeasts and not just the casks,” he says.

Deepali Nandwani is a journalist who keeps a close watch on the world of luxury.

First Published:Sept 28, 2018 7:00 AM IST